Leak Detection
Find a hidden leak behind a wall, under a floor or between the meter and the house.
The water line runs from the meter to the house, usually underground. When it leaks or fails, pressure drops, the bill climbs and a patch of lawn stays wet for no reason.
Call, describe what you see, and ask who owns which section of the line.
The service line carries water from the main in the street, through the meter and on to the house. Typically the utility looks after its main and the meter, and the homeowner is responsible for the pipe on the house side of the meter. Boundaries differ by utility and property, so ask before you pay for anything.
The line is usually buried a short distance underground. It may be copper, galvanized steel, plastic, or a mix of materials spliced together over the decades.
Galvanized steel corrodes from the inside and slowly narrows, which shows up as falling pressure before it shows up as a leak. Copper can pit and develop pinholes. Older plastic can crack at fittings, especially where it was glued or clamped.
Tree roots, shifting soil, a landscaping project or heavy equipment can crush or pull a joint apart. A failing line may leak slowly for months and only show up as a bill increase.
The City of St. Petersburg Water Resources Department runs the municipal water system, and the water is purchased from Tampa Bay Water. The city looks after its side of the system, so a leak before the meter is the utility's job, while a leak after the meter is generally yours.
If you see water coming up near the meter or on the street side, call the city. If the wet spot is between the meter and the house, a plumber is the right call.
Water line work is priced mostly by length, depth and what is on top of the pipe.
Ask whether restoring the yard, driveway or sidewalk is in the quote.
A single failed fitting can often be fixed with a spot repair, where the plumber digs down, cuts out the section and replaces it. That makes sense when the rest of the pipe is in good shape.
Replacement makes more sense when the line is old galvanized steel, has leaked more than once or has lost pressure through corrosion. The old line is dug out and a new pipe goes in, or in some cases a new line is pulled through the old path with less digging.
Ask the plumber what material is going in, how deep it will be buried and how the yard will be restored. These details affect the price and the long-term result.
The plumber locates the line, usually by tracing it from the meter, and marks the dig. Utility lines should be located before any digging, and the plumber normally handles that step.
The water is off during the work, so plan for a few hours without it. Afterward the line is pressure tested and the trench is backfilled. Landscaping, sod and pavement patching may be quoted separately.
The line from the meter to the house often fails quietly. These clues point to it.
A simple check separates the two. Shut the main valve at the house, then watch the meter dial. A dial that keeps turning means water escapes upstream of the valve, on the buried run. A dial that stops means the leak is indoors, and a leak search should begin with the branches.
Ask the contractor to confirm this with a test, not a guess. It matters because the repair differs, and so does who is responsible for which section.
Low pressure across the whole house can come from a partly closed valve, a failing regulator, mineral buildup or a damaged line. A leaking or crushed water line is one of the possible causes, so it belongs on the checklist.
Tell the dispatcher whether the drop is sudden or gradual, and whether hot and cold are both weak. A sudden drop with a wet yard points to the line. A gradual drop in an older house may point to the pipe itself, which can lead to a repipe conversation.
Some owners want only the section from the meter to the house replaced. Others prefer to address the whole system at once so they do not pay for repeated visits. Neither is wrong. The right choice depends on the age of the interior pipe and how much budget and disruption you can handle.
Ask whether trenchless methods are possible on your property. They cut down on yard damage, but they are not suited to every soil or layout. The contractor should explain why a method fits or does not.
Find a hidden leak behind a wall, under a floor or between the meter and the house.
Stop the water, then repair the cracked or split pipe behind it.
Replace worn galvanized, copper or older plastic pipe through the whole house.
Shut off every fixture and watch the meter. If it moves, the leak is after the meter, which means the house side. If water is surfacing near the meter itself, call the city.
A typical residential replacement can often be done in a day, but length, depth and obstacles change that. Ask the plumber for a realistic window before you agree.
Often yes. A licensed contractor normally pulls the permit. Ask who handles it and whether the cost is in the quote.
A trench is usually needed unless the plumber pulls a new line through the old path, which can reduce digging. Ask what restoration is included and what you will need to handle.
The line on the house side of the meter is generally the property owner's responsibility. A licensed contractor can repair it, and the local water utility handles its own side.
A line from the meter to the house can be replaced on its own. If the interior pipe is also failing, ask for an option that covers both so you can compare.
It could. A damaged or leaking line is one possible cause, along with a regulator or valve problem. A pressure test and a look at the meter help narrow it down.
Sometimes. Trenchless and partial methods exist, but they depend on soil, depth and what is above the pipe. The contractor should explain what fits your property.
Close the main valve if water is flowing, then call. Say what you have noticed and where.
Service area centered on St. Petersburg and nearby Pinellas County cities.