Toilet Repair & Installation
Fix a running, leaking or clogged toilet or replace it.
A toilet that will not flush has one of three problems: no water in the tank, a mechanism that does not lift, or a drain that is blocked. A few quick checks tell you which.
By the Urban Comfort Plumbing team ·
Take the lid off and flush while you watch. The handle pulls a chain or a lever that lifts a rubber flapper, which lets the tank water rush into the bowl. If nothing moves when you press the handle, the problem is in the handle linkage. If the flapper lifts but the bowl does not flush, the problem is in the water supply or the drain.
Also look at the water level in the tank. There is usually a mark on the inside, or the water sits about an inch below the top of the overflow tube. A low level means too little water for a full flush.
If the handle feels loose or limp, the nut inside the tank may have come off or the lever arm may have broken. If the handle works but the flapper does not rise, the chain may be disconnected or too slack. The chain should have just a little slack when the flapper is closed, about a half inch.
Reattaching the chain or adjusting the length often restores the flush. If the chain is too short, the flapper will not seal and the toilet will run. If it is too long, it may get caught under the flapper and keep it from closing. Replace a handle or lever that is bent or cracked.
If the tank is empty or low, look at the supply. The shutoff valve under the tank must be open, and a valve that was turned partway closed during other work can starve the tank. Check the fill valve inside the tank. If the float is stuck, the arm is bent or the valve is clogged with debris, it will not refill.
A fill valve that is old or clogged is cheap to replace, and in most cases the toilet's internal parts are replaced as a set. A supply line that is kinked or blocked, or a low-flow shutoff valve that is mostly closed, also slows refill. Turn off the water and flush to empty the tank before you work inside it.
If the bowl fills almost to the rim, rises and drains slowly, or the water sits high after a flush, there is a clog. Use a flange plunger, which has a rubber extension that fits into the drain, not a cup plunger. Seal the drain, push down gently first to push out the air, then pull up and push in a steady rhythm.
A closet auger, also called a toilet snake, reaches clogs a plunger cannot. Feed it into the drain and turn the handle. Avoid chemical drain cleaners in a toilet. They rarely clear it, they can damage plumbing parts, and they leave a harsh liquid in the bowl that is dangerous to the next person who works on it.
A toilet that flushes weakly but does not clog may have blocked rim jets. These are small holes under the rim that wash water around the bowl, and mineral deposits close them. Clean them with a small brush or a wire, and pour vinegar into the overflow tube and let it sit.
The siphon jet, a hole at the bottom of the bowl, can also clog and reduce the flush. If cleaning does not help, a blocked trap or a problem in the vent stack may be the cause. See toilet repair for how these are fixed.
If other drains are slow, a bathtub gurgles when you flush, or a toilet clogs again right after you clear it, the problem may be in the branch or main drain. Try a different toilet. If both are slow, the line is the likely cause.
In that case a plunger will not help. Drain cleaning can clear a main line clog, and a camera look tells you why it keeps returning. If sewage is coming up in a tub or shower, stop using water in the house and call right away.
In extreme events, a city may ask residents to limit water use and avoid flushing to protect its sewer system. Before Hurricane Milton in October 2024, the City of St. Petersburg shut down two of its three sewer plants, and residents were told they would not be able to use toilets and showers normally for a day or more afterward. A toilet that will not take a flush in those conditions is not always a clog in your house.
Follow the utility's instructions in those events. Keep a few buckets of water for manual flushes, fill the tub ahead of a storm, and do not run water you do not need. After service returns, flush gently and watch for slow drains, since a line that sat full may need clearing.
Older toilets use much more water per flush than modern ones. A newer, low-flow toilet depends on a good siphon and clean jets to work well, and a little buildup shows up as a weak flush. A toilet that has always flushed poorly may simply be a poor design, and replacing it with a better-rated model solves it.
Wipes labeled flushable, paper towels, cotton products and feminine products do not break down the way toilet paper does. They snag in the pipe and form clumps. Even a small amount of grease, hair and wipes together can form a hard mass. Keep a bin in the bathroom for them. Use only enough toilet paper for the job.
The flapper may be closing too soon because the chain is too short or the flapper is worn. Adjust the chain or replace the flapper.
There is usually a clog in the trap or drain. A flange plunger or a closet auger often clears it.
It can be, particularly if other drains are slow. Check another toilet and a tub.
It is better to avoid it. Chemicals can harm the fixture and are hazardous to remove, and they rarely clear a toilet clog.
Fix a running, leaking or clogged toilet or replace it.
Clear kitchen, bath, laundry and main-line clogs and find out why they came back.
Fix a cracked, rooted or sagging sewer pipe, from spot repair to a longer section.
Call and describe what it is doing. The dispatcher will connect you with a local contractor.
Service area centered on St. Petersburg and nearby Pinellas County cities.